Wednesday, 11 April 2018

Dear Diary.....Comino Island


Dear Diary,

On this bright and sunny day, my husband and I woke up feeling all hyped up and excited about our trip to Comino Island. The ride to and fro on board a cruise ship was included in our ExplorePlus tallinja card and we could not wait to utilise this perk! It was also on this day that we reckoned we could finally take a nice break from all the walking - to just enjoy ourselves on board and take in the beautiful view sailing on the crystal clear waters of Malta! Well, let’s just say that it was not as relaxing as we had expected...


The small ship from Valletta to Silema

The cruise ship that will bring us to Comino island was by the company “Captain Morgan”. We were told to board the ship at Silema and to get there, we had to take the Valletta ferry service - a short boat ride between the Valletta harbour and Silema harbour. The “Captain Morgan” cruise ship departs from Silema daily at 10am, cruising pass several harbour bays and finally docking at Comino’s famous blue Lagoon where there will be an allocated free time for us to either sunbath/swim at the blue lagoon region or to head inland to explore the island. The cruise ship will then depart from Comino Island at 4.30pm and bring us back to Silema.


Our "Captain Morgan" cruise ship...

As we only had this particular day to venture to Comino island, we most certainly did not want to miss the ship. Hence, we headed off from Valletta much earlier than was required. It turned out to be a great decision as there were some confusion over which cruise ship to board. There were just too many “Captain Morgan” ships docked at Silema harbour! After a while of asking around, we finally found our cruise ship. As it was a free-seating arrangement, we decided to make our way to the open-air upper deck of the ship and found ourselves comfortable seats in a corner with a great view of the sea. Soon, crowds of people started to stream in and fill the ship. After a delay of almost 30 minutes, we finally set sail for Comino island. Prior to departure, we were told that there will be an audio commentary highlighting to us the various landmarks that we will pass by during the 2 hours journey. Unfortunately, it was quite noisy at the upper deck and we could hardly hear the commentary. In the end, we gave up trying to figure out what was said and just admired the nice sea view and the cooling sea breeze on this hot summer day.

Halfway through the journey, we started seeing people heading to the lower deck and arriving back up again with cups of drinks and it was only when a Spanish lady sitting next to us explained that we were entitled to a free flow of drinks that we understood what was going on. We also heaved a sigh of relief as we can finally break free from having to ration our water supply! Did I mention that it was a nightmare trying to buy bottled water in Valletta? There was even one night when we were so desperate for water that we tried drinking tap water - bad idea as the mineral taste of the tap water was too much for us to handle! There were not many major supermarkets spread out across Malta as do most cities that we had visited. For the rare few mini-marts that we came across, they were always closed as we were either there too early in the morning or too late at night. What a bummer! Well, it was good thing that we now had free flow of drinks on board to keep us hydrated on this hot day!


The lunch...with extra protein added....

We arrived at Comino island at around noon time and were given instruction to head to the lower deck to get our lunch. We were expecting a cold buffet spread but it was nothing like it at all! By the time we got to the lower deck, there was already a long queue for the food. Each of us was given a plate and the ship crew would dish out some pasta, a slice of ham and some bread onto our plates. Carefully guarding the miserable plate of food that took great efforts to obtain, we soon found a seat at the lower deck and started tucking into our food. To my horror, halfway through, I actually found a huge bee trapped under the pile of pasta! Horrified and filled with disgust, I hurriedly pushed the plate out of sight and at the same time, struggling to stop myself from kicking my husband who had jokingly commented that I had extra protein added! Thankfully, we have had the habit of bringing snacks with us wherever we go and it was at that instant that I was extremely grateful for that extra weight in our bags!


Another reason for us to get away from the blue lagoon...

After that unpleasant lunch episode, my husband and I just wanted to get away from the hustle and bustle on the ship. We soon found ourselves on the island, armed with only two small bottles of water, a few snacks and a small guide book on Comino island (which was on loan from our Airbnb host). The land was mostly barren with not much shade from the scorching sun and we decided to follow one of the faint walking paths. Apart from the massive crowd found at the blue lagoon, the other parts of this island are very quiet and surreal. There were literally no one else in sight other than us - it was hardly a surprise coming from the fact that there are only 3 permanent residents on this island! We were feeling both glad (that we are finally away from all the noise) and anxious (at being the only two humans in that pathway) as we explored the place. As we were expected to be back at the ship by 4pm, we spent the next 2.5 hours walking along the foot path (occasionally deviating slightly from it and ended up getting lost), taking lots of photos, enjoying each other’s company on this empty piece of land and just enjoying the view all around the island. Despite the fatigue and sun burn from the walk, it was truly an enjoyable walking trip in what seems like a place of our own!


Literally no one else in sight on the island..

Santa Marija Battery

Santa Marija Tower

Lovely clear waters surrounding the island..

Such scenic views...

Overall, we felt that although there were quite a few issues with the cruise ship provider that did not quite meet up to our expectations, having a positive mindset and outlook has enabled us to enjoy it nonetheless! At the end of the day, the gorgeous view of the crystal clear blue water around Comino island seems to have the magical effect of making everything seemed worthwhil- certainly ending our Malta trip on an excellent note! :)

Yours Truly,
Claire


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Wednesday, 4 April 2018

Dear Diary.....Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Archaeological Park + Blue Wall and Grotto viewpoint (Malta)



Dear Diary,

The second highlight of our Malta tour brings us to the Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Archaeological Park, a place that we had identified as one of the must-go places for this trip. So what is the deal with this park? Well, a quick goggle revealed that this park is an archaeological site that comprises of the Hagar Qim and Mnajdra megalithic temple complexes, built out of massively large stones. What is fascinating about this site is that these prehistoric temples had been claimed as the oldest free-standing structures on Earth (dated as far back as possibility between 3600 - 3200 BC) and that they are still so well preserved. Furthermore, it had been discovered that one of the prehistoric chambers of the Hagar Qim temple complex holds an elliptical hole which is in alignment with the Summer Solstice sunrise - on the first sunrise of the summer, the sun’s rays can pass through this hole and illuminate a stone slab inside the chamber.

Hagar Qim temple complex

On our arrival to the actual site, we were glad to be able to seek refuge from the hot summer sun at the ticketing office. There were hardly any queue and we managed to purchase our admission tickets (which allowed access to the two temple complex sites and the visitor center) in no time. Happily, we were ushered into one of the air-conditioned theater where a 3-dimensional animation gave us a brief history and hypothesis of the functions of the temples. Walking out from the theater, we were allowed to roam around in the visitor center which provided posters with more written facts and miniature models of the temples. Our relief from the blazing sun was short-lived as we made our way to the first site - the Hagar Qim temple complex, located a short distance from the visitor center, on a hilltop that is to the south-west of the village of Qrendi and overlooking the sea and the islet of Fifla. Although the open-sided shelter protecting the site provided some shade from the harsh sun rays, the smoldering heat of the summer sun could still be felt. However, despite having to deal with the unwelcoming weather, my husband and I were in awe by what we saw - the neat formation of the gigantic stones created a very majestic aura and we could only imagine how grand it must have been back then when it was still a functional temple. We spent quite a bit of time at this site, appreciating and marveling at the ingenuity behind the creation of the different areas of the temple complex.

Miniature model of Hagar Qim temple Complex

Huge stones of Hagar Qim temple

Entrance of Hagar Qim temple

One of the chambers of Hagar Qim temple

The long passageway to Mnajdra temple complex

After we are done exploring the Hagar Qim temple complex, we made our way to the Mnajdra temple complex that lies just 500 meters away, at the bottom of the hill. The two sites were connected by a long passageway and although we could have easily paid a small fee to hitch a ride on the buggy to the entrance of the Mnajdra temple complex, we decided to make our way there by foot. Bad idea! It was literally the worst decision made as we felt every bit of our body melting under the hot sun with each step that we took. After what seems like an eternity, we finally reached the Mnajdra temple complex. It had a much simpler design as compared to Haga Qim temple complex but it was still awe-inspiring nonetheless.

Miniature model of Mnajdra temple complex
Entrance of Mnajdra temple

Overview of Mnajdra temple

One of the chambers of Mnajdra temple
Large stones of Mnajdra temple

Walking through these two archaeological sites, it was as if we were taken back in time and we cannot help but marvel at this wonderful creation while at the same time pondering over who, how and why were these temples built for. We finally understood why this park has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the reason for its fame as one of the more popular places to visit in Malta!

One of the view seen from the Blue Wall and Grotto viewpoint

Still in a daze from the visit to the Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Archaeological Park, we proceed to make our way to the Blue Wall and Grotto viewpoint, a short 10 minutes bus ride from the park. However, the supposedly shortest journey of the day turned out to be the most frustrating one. The unbearable heat in this super hot afternoon had already drained away most of our energy and we were so looking forward to feeling the cooling breeze of the air-conditioning on the bus but for some reason that day, the bus was delayed. After 1 hour of wait, some of those waiting with us for the bus decided to take the 30 minutes walk under the hot sun to the Blue Wall and Grotto viewpoint. My husband and I decided to follow suit after waiting for close to 1.5 hours and bid farewell to those who continued to wait at the bus-stop. But as we walked towards the halfway mark, the bus which we had waited for so dearly suddenly appeared and we could only watch helplessly as the bus zoomed past, with those passengers whom we had left behind at the bus-stop waving at us with huge smirks on their faces. It was at that moment that both of us wanted to beat ourselves up for not enduring it and waited for a bit longer for the bus. But nevertheless, we decided to press on with our walk and we were greeted with a wonderful and gorgeous scenery when we reached the viewpoint - a small consolation to our weary hearts and a huge relief to all the frustrations that we faced to get there!

View from the Blue Wall and Grotto viewpoint

It was also at this point that we realized it was going to be quite difficult to cover all the touristic sites that we have planned to do on this short trip to Malta. Why is that so, you may ask? Well, it all boils down to the fact that the bus journey to and fro these places takes up far too much time (duration ranged from a minimum of 30 minutes up to 2 hours) and any delays in the arrival of the public bus is going to further lengthen the commute duration. We would have to think through our itinerary again for the next few days and be selective about where to explore. But for now at the end of this day, all we want to do is to have a nice shower and a good night’s rest....

Yours Truly,
Claire


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